Breed Info


Brushing & Coat Care

For regular twice weekly grooming sessions you will need a soft slicker or pin brush to remove any knotting amongst the guard and top hairs. Followed by either a rake (preferably with rotating pins so it doesn’t pull and hurt as much) or a wide toothed comb, preferably with Teflon anti-static coating so it slides through easier to remove undercoat or to tease apart tangles or mats.

First brush in direction of hair growth, from head to tail, then brush and comb in the opposite direction, layer by layer, a small portion at the time. Divide the hair with one hand, hold and brush then comb down to the skin. When entire body has been brushed against the grain, then brush the coat back in place. When the dog's body is done, do the tail.

Old dogs may be more comfortable groomed on the floor. Don't forget to brush the underside and legs. This sensitive area often mats so be very gentle. Geriatric dogs and young pups are best groomed in multiple short sessions one section or side at a time. Be prepared to spend a considerable amount of time to remove all the dead undercoat.

As you groom your dog, spend a few minutes running your fingers gently through the coat. Feel for any lumps. Look for grass-seeds, bindii, sores or inflamed areas. Regular grooming is important for ALL dogs but especially older dogs.

If in area where paralysis tick’s are – it is imperative that you check for these parasites daily.


Slicker brush for getting out the guard coat top knots prior to using rake or comb.

Chris Christensen T-Brush is EXCELLENT for double coated breeds and have polished pins…very gentle, as well as extremely effective at removing the dead undercoat, especially with the longer haired Woolly’s.

Evolution Undercoat Rake with Rotating Teeth, Double Row – BEST rake to use….decreases pulling with the rotating pins. Wide toothed Teflon anti-static comb – great for line combing.


***Shaving is NEVER recommended unless a medical necessity. Please refer to article linked below and provided by Animal Medical Centre of Bradenton.

Shave-Downs of Fur-Bearing Dogs: Triggering skin disease and lawsuits.

CATS & Malamutes living together

Can you have an Alaskan Malamute if you have a cat?

Well, if not raised from a puppy with a family cat, malamutes can be very predatory toward a cat and may see them as a rabbit, or small animal like rodents. This can lead to them hunting and killing them. However, if you already have a cat and have a Malamute puppy then it is possible to comfortably combine the two and they will consider each other a pack member and the malamute will actually protect the cat, cuddle with it and play nice enjoying each other’s company.

Having said that, it is always best to have the cat first , then obtain the Malamute as a puppy and make sure it is socialised with the household cats young (from 8wks to 6mths for the puppy is the most critical time). Cats will typically always think of themselves as the dominant creature, so when the puppy is integrated at this young age, with the correct introductions, your malamute will accept this and the pack will be happy.

KIDS & Malamutes living together

There is ABSOLUTELY no reason why you cannot have Malamutes with Children. We sadly hear so often how someone is getting rid of their beloved Malamute simply because they are having a baby. Malamutes raised properly and socialised with children are fantastic companions for kids. They are loving and can be protective toward children as long as you, as the owner do your job correctly to prepare them for the arrival of your newborn. Please click on the below link for a guide on “Malamutes with Children” .


Fencing & Digging

Coming soon...